The settlement comprising the two adjoining villages of Mola Utara and Mola Selatan is located in the shallow inshore waters on the southwest coast of Wanci Island, approximately 2 km from Wanse (Plate 2-1). Running parallel to the coast, the Mola settlement extends approximately 800 m in length and up to 400 m from the shoreline. It is the largest Bajo settlement in the Tukang Besi Islands, and possibly one of the largest in Indonesia. It was originally one village, but was designated as two villages in 1981 because of its growing population. Each village is divided into two hamlets. In 1994 Mola Utara had a population of 1963 living in 338 houses, while Mola Selatan was slightly larger with a population of 2315 living in 388 houses (see Table 2-2). In some cases there was more than one family living in a house, so the number of houses did not reflect the number of families. Mola Utara is much smaller in area than Mola Selatan (2.3 km² as against 6 km²), so had a higher population density. High rates of seasonal migration mean that population numbers fluctuate over time, particularly during the east monsoon between the months of July and December, when males engage in voyaging and families and extended relatives resettle in Pepela for the duration of the fishing season. Moreover, since Bajo people often spend extended periods of time away from Mola engaged in other activities, it is difficult to obtain exact population numbers.

Table 2-2: Population and number of houses in Mola, 1994.

Sources: Kapubaten Buton (1994a: 9) and 1994 field survey data.

The Mola population is predominantly Bajo, but some intermarriage has taken place with other Tukang Besi people and with other Butonese, Bugis, Makassarese and Moluccans, as well as with Bajo from other parts of Indonesia. Many Bajo living in Mola Utara originated directly from other communities or boat anchorages in Buton, whereas most of the middle-aged population of Mola Selatan were born in or originated from Mantigola in the late 1950s. Some elderly Bajo reported they were born at sea on small boats called soppe. This older generation had parents who were born in places like Kulingsusu, Pasar Wajo, La Goro, or Bisaya in Buton or on the island of Kabaena, west of Buton. Others have parents who were born in Oenggai (on Roti Island) or in Kabir (on Pantar Island). Most Bajo of the younger generation were born in Mola.

The Mola settlement consists of rows of houses built either directly on coral rock foundations or on wooden piles over the water, with each row generally separated by waterways or canals of various widths. Individual houses and village sections are connected by tenuously placed wooden planks or lengths of bamboo above the water or raised bridges between coral foundations. Some of the older village sections have larger areas of coral rock foundation in front of the houses. The settlement is accessible from the land by two main arterial coral rock pathways, one near a village office (kantor desa) and one near the mosque. There are also arterial footpaths running parallel to the main waterways. Every house in the settlement has direct access to the sea. Older residents claim that Mola was originally built over the water and quite a distance from the land, before permanent walkways were built in the 1960s, so as children they had to swim or travel by dugout canoe to attend school. Nowadays, Bajo travel around the settlement by foot or canoe, but some of the more recently constructed houses to the north and south are accessible only by canoe. Travel by canoe is often the fastest and easiest method of moving around the settlement and is competently undertaken by skilled Bajo of all ages (Plates 2-2, 2-3 and 2-4).

Tidal movements range up to 2.5 m, periodically flushing out household rubbish and personal waste, but during low tides, particularly neap tides, a profound stench permeates the settlement. At times of very high tides and stormy weather, the rock foundations may be submerged in some locations.

The Mola Bajo have no territorial right or claim to the body of water in which they build their houses. Only the coral rock foundations and the houses are privately titled. Houses are constructed from a variety of materials — wood, brick or thatched palm leaf panels, with roofs of asbestos, tin and thatched palm. Many of the wooden houses are actually built of materials purchased from Tukang Besi people, especially from Kaledupa. A thatched hut, with a wooden or bamboo slat floor, is normally built at the back of the house to serve as a cooking area. Since it is often the coolest part of the house it is used as a general-purpose living area, but in smaller houses the sleeping rooms and cooking area are contained in the one structure. Some houses have small toilet huts built on piles over the water, and one toilet is often used by a number of families. Bathing is most commonly conducted outside, using fresh water stored in ceramic jars or jerry cans. Some houses have a separate hut for use as a washing area, while the newer brick houses have a bathroom.

Since 1989 fresh water has been pumped from tanks on the mainland through pipes to a number of satellite holding tanks. Some houses in the central part of the settlement have water pumped directly to their houses. More commonly, women and children have to either collect water from a well located in Mandati I, or buy water from others, or travel by canoe to Kapota village on Kambode Island to collect good quality drinking water. Women spend long hours each day collecting water in plastic containers and then transporting it in canoes to their houses.

While many parts of the settlement have electricity, it is only available from late afternoon until around 6.00am and on Sunday afternoons. Not every household has its own television but communal TV viewing is a popular pastime, and about four houses, notably those belonging to Haji, had satellite by 1995 and were able to access international television channels.

There is a primary school (Sekolah Dasar Mola Utara) located on land in Mandati I. Bajo children’s attendance at school is irregular so there is a high level of illiteracy in the community. Few complete junior and senior high school, and even fewer go on to tertiary education. Parents who place a high value on education and have the necessary financial means or family contacts often send their children to school in Baubau or Kendari to receive a higher standard of education. ^[6] In 1995, around 20 young Mola Bajo adults had completed some form of tertiary education at universities in Baubau, Kendari and Ujung Pandang, but even these young people found it hard to secure formal employment.

The dusun of Mantigola is built on sandbanks and reef flats in shallow waters on the western side of Kaledupa island, approximately 400–500 m from the mangrove-lined strand area of Desa Horuo and only accessible by boat. Desa Horuo is approximately 1 hour’s walk from Ambeua. Mantigola, with a population of around 600–700 people, is officially part of Desa Horuo, which had a total population of 1342 in 1994. Like Mola, the settlement experiences fluctuations in population with males sailing on seasonal trading and fishing voyages during the east monsoon.

Evidence of a larger population residing at Mantigola in the past can be inferred from a series of coral foundations further out to sea and from the fact that houses are now placed at some distance from each other. Mantigola is favoured by the Bajo because a large lagoon situated in the centre of the village serves as a deep-water anchorage. However, unlike Mola, there are only a few walkways around Mantigola and it is necessary to travel around the village by canoe at high tide. Houses are similar to those in Mola, constructed of a variety of materials such as bamboo, nipa palm, timber and roofing iron, and built either on wooden piles directly above the water or on coral rock foundations (see Plate 2-5). There is no electricity. Water must be collected from a well on the land at Horuo and transported in jerry cans by canoe. The isolation of Mantigola makes it difficult to obtain fresh food and household goods, and women usually buy food from Horuo or walk to the main market area in Ambeua. The Mantigola Bajo bury their dead on the land to the right of Horuo.

Dusun Sampela is located approximately 400 m from the mainland on the northeastern side of Kaledupa Island. Administratively it is part of Desa Lau Lua. The population of Sampela (around 1200 people) live in about 210 houses built of temporary material (personal communication, Chris Majors, 1998). Most of the village is accessible by foot over walkways and bridges. There is no electricity nor any local supply of fresh water, which therefore has to be collected from wells and transported by canoe from Kaledupa. Rates of immigration and emigration are lower for Sampela than for other Bajo villages. Sampela is reported to be very poor compared with Mola and Mantigola, but is one of the intended beneficiaries of community development projects funded by Operation Wallacea.

Dusun La Hoa is located on the eastern side of Kaledupa and is administratively part of Desa Langge, which had a total population of 1771 in 1994. La Hoa is the smallest of the Bajo communities on Kaledupa, comprising about 15 houses (personal communication, Chris Majors, 1996).

Dusun La Manggau is located on the northern tip of Tolandono Island, not far from Waha, the capital of Tomia Island, and has a population of 500–600 people. The settlement is administratively part of Desa Waiti. The hamlet comprises a small number of Bajo families as well as some Tomia people. There are 10–15 Bajo houses built above the water on the seaward side of the settlement. Their houses are accessible from the land on which the Tomia people live.