The majority of perahu from Mola departed for Pepela during the months of July and August. The journey typically takes around one week depending on the wind conditions and number of stops along the way. [3] Another phase of preparations takes place in Pepela, which includes restocking the perahu with food, water and cut timber, and maybe obtaining extra supplies or equipment. A sailing clearance also has to be obtained from the local harbour master.
In late August 1994, Pepela was bustling with activity. The harbour was a picturesque sight rarely seen in any other port in eastern Indonesia, with dozens of brightly painted sailing boats at anchor. All of the Mola perahu and most of the Mantigola perahu had already arrived. Bajo perahu were anchored off Tanjung Pasir and to the east side of the pier while the locally owned perahu were generally anchored to the north and west of the pier. The combined Bajo and Pepelan fleet operating out of Pepela during 1994 numbered around 140–150 perahu.
Pepela’s harbour also acts as a stopping off point and base for perahu from other villages like Oelaba (on Roti), for Madurese perahu lete lete, and for motorised perahu from other parts of eastern Indonesia. In 1994, a number of motor boats from Sinjai in South Sulawesi, with Bugis crews, also used Pepela as a base to process trepang and restock supplies between each fishing trip.
From August to December 1994, records were kept of the activities of all 74 Bajo perahu lambo operating out of Pepela. Table 7-2 shows the distribution of this fleet between six categories of ownership and origin. [4] Table 7-3 shows the total number of trips taken by these 74 boats over this period.
Table 7-2: Number of Bajo perahu operating for each category of the Bajo fleet, August to December 1994.
|
Mola boats based in Mola |
Mola boats based in Pepela |
Mantigola boats based in Mantigola |
Mantigola boats based in Pepela |
Pepela boats with Bajo crew |
Bajo from other areas |
Total |
|
26 |
22 |
6 |
3 |
13 |
4 |
74 |
Table 7-3: Number of boat trips made by 74 Bajo perahu, August to December 1994.
|
No. of trips |
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
Total |
|
No. of perahu |
6* |
26 |
32 |
10 |
194 |
* This number includes three perahu recorded as making the minimum number of one voyage each because it is not known exactly how many voyages each of these perahu made during the season.
The usual duration of voyages is between 20 and 30 days. As the length of a fishing voyage can depend on the prevailing wind conditions and the amount of supplies, this does not equal the number of fishing days. The majority of voyages were undertaken during September, October and November. The majority of perahu departed Pepela for the first fishing trip in the first week of September and returned to Pepela in the first two weeks of October. The majority of Mola perahu departed for their second trip during the third week of October, returning during the second and third week of November. At any one time, the harbour can be full of boats, numbering a 100 or more. In contrast, within a matter of days it can be almost deserted and remain quiet for a few weeks. In early September there were only 20 perahu lambo in the harbour but one month later, in the first week of October, the harbour was bursting with activity after dozens of boats had returned from fishing trips (see Plate 7-4).
A mass exodus of boats within a period of a few days is due to the association of favourable wind conditions with the lunar cycle. According to the Bajo, the end of a lunar cycle when there is no moon (bulan mati) is usually a period of strong winds and not considered a safe time to depart, but the winds die down with the appearance of a new moon. By departing at that time, the crews also have the advantage of fishing during a full moon (see Plate 7-5). [5]
There is no set period for the amount of time a boat remains in Pepela in between voyages. Generally, the crew spend one or two weeks there, which is time enough to sell the catch, carry out maintenance, clean the perahu, repair fishing gear, buy more supplies and wait for suitable wind conditions to depart again. After returning from their second trip in 1994, some perahu returned to Mola in late November. For other captains and crews the decision go out to sea again was influenced by factors such as the financial success of the season and their observation of the current weather conditions. Towards the end of the year, prior to the onset of the west monsoon, the weather becomes increasingly unpredictable. Some perahu departed a third time only to return to Pepela later the same day because of strong wind conditions. [6]
At the end of the 1994 fishing season, the size of the Bajo fleet had decreased: some had been sold in Pepela, Wanci or Kaledupa, while others had been apprehended for illegal fishing activity in the AFZ (see Table 7-4).
Table 7-4: Number of perahu sold or apprehended, and number remaining at the end of the season, December 1994.
|
Mola boats based in Mola |
Mola boats based in Pepela |
Mantigola boats based in Mantigola |
Mantigola boats based in Pepela |
Pepela boats with Bajo crew |
Bajo from other areas |
Total |
|
|
Sold |
4 |
0 |
2 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
7 |
|
Apprehended |
2* |
3 |
0 |
0 |
2 |
0 |
7 |
|
Remaining |
21 |
19 |
4 |
2 |
11 |
4 |
61 |
* The perahu Tunas Baru was apprehended in November 1996, but the crew were able to pay a security bond and return with the boat, so it is not included in the total numbers lost.
At the end of the fishing season approximately two thirds of the Bajo perahu fleet returned to Mola, Mantigola or other villages from which they had originally departed. Most perahu returning to Mola or Mantigola took on extra passengers, including women and children, or crew from boats that had been sold or apprehended (see Plates 7-6 and 7-7). The Sumber Jaya, for example, had a total of 17 people on board for the return journey of seven days duration. As well as the original crew, this included one other female, the sister of the captain; some crew from the Nurjaya that had been apprehended and confiscated in November; and the captain of the Sinar Jaya II who had returned early to Mola in October but then come back to Pepela by motor boat to collect his two sons.
During the west monsoon period from December 1994 to March 1995, most of the remaining Bajo families in Pepela also returned to Mola and Mantigola. Many of the Bajo women living on the Tanjung during the 1994 fishing season had stayed on during the 1993–94 west monsoon and found living conditions difficult, many having to evacuate their houses during strong winds and wet conditions. Families returned home to visit relatives, attend religious feasts and celebrations, and check on houses. This time also provided an opportunity for men to work in the live fish trade that operated in Southeast Sulawesi and the Tukang Besi Islands during early 1995.
[3] From Mola, the perahu sail south through the Flores Sea, often stopping at the southern end of the Tukang Besi coral reef complex, west of Tomia, to fish for a day or two. The route takes the boats through the Maco Strai, passing the islands of Adonara and Lomblem. Some vessels stop briefly at the village of Wywuring, on the southern end of Adonara, to sell fish previously caught at the reef. The route continues through the Savu Sea towards Kupang, with a possible stop at the villages of Sulamu or Tablolong south of Kupang, before they reach Pepela.
[4] A small number of Bajo men crewed on boats owned a partially crewed by Pepelans. Men from a number of ethnic groups can come together to form a crew and borrow a perahu from a Pepelan boss. Aside from perahu lambo, there were approximately ten motor boats of various sizes owned by Bajo from Mola and Mantigola who were living in Pepela. These were used to fish for shark using longlines in the northern Timor and Arafura seas.
[5] Motorised vessels are much faster and can therefore make round trips of seven days or less, with a much higher proportion of the time spent fishing. For this reason they are also smaller and have limited storage capacity.
[6] Although some fishing trips may be hampered by strong winds, between August and November another problem may be the lack of wind: perahu may be becalmed during the doldrums. In such conditions, the crew may be required to row the perahu using a set of long oars kept on every boat. This is also necessary in order to prevent them from drifting into forbidden areas within the AFZ.